This guide describes the Mac sensing implementation. See Mac and Windows options for platform availability; features and permissions vary by platform.
The Practical Home Security Checklist for Apartments and Houses
Most home security advice starts with shopping. This checklist starts with an audit: walk your own home the way an opportunist would, find the weak points, and fix the cheap ones first. Nearly everything below costs little or nothing, most of it is renter-safe, and none of it requires believing a single marketing claim. Set aside an hour, grab your phone for notes, and work through it top to bottom.
1. Doors — the honest front line
- Push-test every exterior door. With the door locked, lean on it. Flex and rattle usually mean short strike-plate screws biting only the door frame trim.
- Upgrade strike-plate screws to 3-inch. The single best value in physical security: long screws anchor the strike plate into the wall stud instead of the thin jamb. Renters: this is invisible and reversible.
- Confirm every exterior door has a deadbolt that throws fully — a latch alone is a courtesy, not a lock.
- Check the hinge side. Outward-opening doors with exposed hinge pins need security studs or set screws in the hinges.
- Sliding doors: drop a rod or cut dowel in the track, and check whether the panel can be lifted off its rail; anti-lift screws in the upper track fix that.
- Audit your key situation. Who has copies? Any hidden outside? (Assume any hiding spot you thought of, others have too.) On a smart lock, delete stale codes — old cleaners, old roommates, old relationships.
- Apartment-specific: ask management when the unit's lock was last rekeyed; request it on move-in. Add a portable door brace or travel lock for nights if the building master-keys locks.
2. Windows — the quiet second door
- Test every latch, especially ground floor and any window reachable from a porch roof, balcony, or fence line. Aging sash latches often close without actually engaging.
- Add pin locks or vent stops to double-hung windows so they can lock in a slightly-open position — cheap, renter-friendly hardware.
- Don't forget the garage windows and basement wells. They're out of sight, which is exactly the problem.
- Check what's visible from outside at night. Stand at the street after dark: can you inventory your electronics through the front room? Sheer curtains or repositioned gear ends the free catalog.
- Air conditioners in windows should be bracketed so the unit can't simply be pushed inward.
3. Lighting and sight lines
- Every entry point should be lit — motion-activated or dusk-to-dawn fixtures at front, back, and side doors.
- Trim shrubs below window height near entries; greenery that hides a person is cover, not landscaping.
- Make the house look decided, not vacant. Automated interior lights on staggered evening schedules read as occupancy. If you run a smart-home system, presence-driven or scheduled scenes do this without you thinking about it.
4. Routines and social exposure
- Stop announcing empty-house windows. Post the vacation photos after you're back.
- Manage deliveries. A stack of boxes is a days-since-home counter on your porch; use pickup lockers or a neighbor when traveling.
- Mail and trash tell time too. Pause mail for long trips; have someone roll the bins.
- Know your neighbors. The oldest security network there is, and still among the best: people who recognize what "normal" looks like on your doorstep.
5. Network and device hygiene
Modern break-ins aren't all physical. Your smart home is only as trustworthy as the network it sits on.
- Change every default password — router admin first, then each smart device that has one.
- Update router firmware and enable WPA3 (or at minimum WPA2) with a strong passphrase.
- Put IoT gear on a guest or separate network where your router supports it, so a compromised plug can't browse your laptop.
- Inventory what phones home. Know which devices work over your LAN and which are dead without their vendor's cloud — the difference matters for both privacy and outage behavior, as we cover in keeping smart-home data on your own hardware.
- Disable remote-admin features you don't use (UPnP port forwarding, WPS, vendor remote access) on the router.
6. Detection and alerts
- Decide who gets told when something happens. A monitoring service, or your own phone? Choose deliberately — the trade-offs are real in both directions, and we break them down in self-monitored vs. professionally monitored security.
- Cover the interior, not just the perimeter. Door and window sensors watch edges; presence sensing tells you whether a home that should be empty actually is. If cameras indoors feel wrong to you — they do to many people — camera-free presence sensing covers bedrooms and living space without a lens.
- Test the alert path monthly. Arm the system, trip it on purpose, and confirm the alert reaches your phone. An untested alert chain is a hope, not a system.
- Keep an event log. When something odd happens, a timestamped history of device and presence events turns "I think someone was here" into facts.
- Smoke and CO detectors count as security. Test buttons quarterly; replace batteries on a calendar, not on the chirp.
7. If the worst happens anyway
- Photograph valuables and record serial numbers now, while nothing is wrong. Store the file somewhere other than only the laptop that could be taken.
- Check your insurance coverage for actual limits on electronics, jewelry, and bikes — and what documentation a claim requires.
- Keep spare keys and codes revocable. Prefer re-codeable locks and deletable digital codes over floating brass copies.
Where sensing fits in
Sections 1–4 are hardware and habits — do them regardless of any product. Sections 5–6 are where software earns a place: estimating whether the home is empty, arming that knowledge while you're away, and getting an alert yourself. Vigil handles that layer on a Mac you own with LAN device control, camera-free presence sensing, four security modes, and optional alert text sent to the HTTP or HTTPS endpoint you choose. Use HTTPS, test the route, and keep independent life-safety equipment.